Even if you weren’t specifically interested in architecture or history, you’d be in for a treat at Imperial Hotel Tokyo.
Location & Access
The Imperial Hotel Tokyo, close to the Imperial Palace, Ginza, and Hibiya Park, also has very good rail connections. In addition to being a hop and a skip from Hibiya metro station, it’s also accessible to Haneda Airport from Shimbashi station, and Narita Airport and bullet trains from Tokyo station. Even among Tokyo’s numerous downtowns, I believe it’s one of the area’s best-connected hotels.
Reservations can be made here.
History
If you knew about the Imperial Hotel Tokyo, you might have thought that U.S. architect Frank Lloyd Wright was the one behind the property’s creation. That’s only part of the story.
Rather, we first have a fellow by the name of Shibusawa Eiichi to thank. Often considered to be the “father of Japanese capitalism,” Shibusawa formed Japan’s first national bank, its stock exchange, and had a hand in establishing many other businesses.
As a respected former politician and serial entrepreneur, Shibusawa was tasked with opening a Tokyo guest house for foreign dignitaries. The first structure opened in 1890.
In the mid-1910s, given his renown in the West, Frank Lloyd Wright was hired to design an additional building. Employing a Mayan Revival theme, Wright used Ōya stone quarried from Tochigi prefecture to create a uniquely welcoming space in the capital.
Wright’s new building opened on 1 September 1923, coincidentally on the same day as the Great Kanto Earthquake. Due to its formidable reinforcement, the brand-new structure survived, while its woodwork-based neighbors were nearly all destroyed in ensuing fires.
Following World War II which saw U.S. forces occupy the property, and the hotel becoming the first to officially register with the government in 1950, due to a variety of reasons, the Wright-designed building closed in 1967. (you can still see some of the original structure at Meiji Mura theme park near Nagoya)
Once that was demolished, its replacement opened in its place in 1970. However, there are already plans to modernize much of the site within the next 10 years.
History and architecture buffs will appreciate nods to the hotel’s past on the mezzanine level, and in the lobby (hiding under the grand staircase).
Owing to Wright’s legacy, the current hotel has a Frank Lloyd Wright Suite®, replete with Ōya stone, stained glass, and furniture made of oak.
Lobby & Check-in
In spite of having visited Tokyo many times, I never once stepped foot into the Imperial Hotel. And I’m an architecture fan, so it beggars belief.
With ample staff present around the clock, checking-in took no time at all. In fairness, I was really just eager to set the bags down in the room so that I could start touring the hotel, to see vestiges of its storied past (such as those above).
But what I found most striking in the lobby was the massive artwork, called Wall of Light, in the Rendez-Vous Lounge.
Created in 1970 sculptor Minami Tada, it is composed of roughly 7600 glass blocks.
Speaking of the Rendez-Vous Lounge, it seemed to be a scene from open ’til close, just as the lobby itself was a hot spot for dignitaries and tourists alike.
That bouquet — which can also be seen in the above lobby entrance photo — changes depending on the season. Expect cherry blossoms to appear next month, and sunflowers in the summer.
Room
Given how many elevators there were, I rarely had to wait more than 20 seconds for one.
One aspect that I quickly came to appreciate was not having to swipe the keycard in the elevator.
Instead…guests swipe to get into the specific wing in which their room is located:
There are a variety of room and suite types at the Imperial Hotel Tokyo. I happened to be in a Junior Suite on an Imperial Floor. Imperial Floor benefits include attendants (similar to butlers) between 08:00 and 21:00, beverage services between 18:00 and 20:00, and the ability to reserve a conference room for one hour each day of one’s stay. Furthermore, one can get a complimentary shoe shine and turn-down service, daily newspapers, and best of all, minibar drinks and snacks gratis…save for the alcohol.
But enough words, let’s check out a couple of videos of my Junior Suite:
Needless to say, the room was excellent. It was a few times more spacious than my usual Tokyo accommodations, was set back from the hallway so that outside noises were kept to a minimum, and had a very comfortable bed.
Plus, what do you think of the narrow structure atop the Tokyo Takarazuka theater?:
Bathroom amenities included Molton Brown (one of my favorites) shampoo, hand cream, and body wash, and for-purchase Mikimoto vanity kits.
I think you’d be hard-pressed to find a more inviting room than one at this property.
Hotel guests also have access to the pool, 24-hour gym, and sauna:
Dining & Shopping
To be blunt, there are heaps of dining and shopping options at the Imperial Hotel Tokyo.
On that note, guests have four restaurant choices for breakfast, as well as room service.
Besides Parkside Diner (U.S.-style), Les Saisons (French with 1-Michelin star), and Tokyo Nadaman (Japanese), there’s also The Imperial Viking Sal.
For both nights of my stay, I chose The Imperial Viking Sal for a couple of reasons.
As a foodie, I was amused to learn that it was the first hotel buffet in Japan, opening way back in 1958.
In fact, one of the Japanese words for buffet, バイキング (baikingu), stems from the “Viking” buffet at this hotel.
Secondly, I wanted to have some variety and views while I ate. Unfortunately, only the second part of that came true.
This was the one place at the hotel where I was let down.
Sure, I found the French toast and omelettes to be excellent, easily the two high points of buffet. But waitstaff could have used some more training, and worse yet, there was just about no difference in available dishes on both days.
There were a couple of times I asked waiters for particular condiments, only to be told that they were not available at breakfast time. So…were they kept behind vaults in the morning?
Old Imperial Bar
For lunch on my first day, I tried the Old Imperial Bar. I liked its anachronistic setting, showcasing a number of original works from the Wright hotel, combined with a power lunch ambience.
I put my voracious appetite to work, and ordered a fried shrimp sandwich, a hamburger, and a gin-based Mt. Fuji cocktail, prepared with egg whites to mimic snow from the eponymous mountain.
Check-out & Final Thoughts
As noted earlier, there was no queue at reception, which meant I had ample time to reach Tokyo station for my train to Sendai.
For the history alone, I would have been chuffed about staying at the Imperial Hotel Tokyo. But having overall good service, a great location, and an all-too-hospitable room sealed the deal.
For breakfast, however, you might want to try another restaurant….
Disclaimer: this review was written in exchange for a two-night hosted stay.
Good review. I have stayed at the Imperial 3 to 4 weeks each year since the 60s; working for numerous Japanese corporations. My first visit was in the 50s while on R&R (Korea) but only officers were accepted. I was accompanied by a friend with connections. A better breakfast can be found in the back on the ground floor but there are many options a few minutes walk toward the Ginza. All the new buildings have enormous basements with a wide range of food options.
Thank you for your comment and backgrounder, Herbert! I reckon you’d be correct about the breakfast; however, as a food writer, it was imperative to try out a piece of Japanese (buffet) history. Do you know about the construction plans happening just south of the hotel?