Infrastructure

Forgotten about Overnight Rail in Europe?

June 6, 2024 by NoWorkAllTravel 4 Comments

It’s almost the summer … have you forgotten about one of Europe’s overnight rail services?

The European Sleeper, chugs its way from Germany’s capital to Belgium’s capital, stopping at Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Antwerp, as well as a few other cities along the route.

It has three different classes:

Sleepers – Deluxe, with three beds and a sink in the compartment, breakfast, and a welcome drink included.
Couchettes – Comfort, with a maximum of six beds, as well as a smaller breakfast, and a bottle of water.
Seats – Budget, six seats per compartment — seating reservations are included — but drinks and snacks can be purchased by train attendants. The entire budget compartment can also be purchased, save for trips only between the Netherlands and Belgium.

Pictures, anyone?

Starting in Berlin:

Marie-Elisabeth-Lüders House Parliament Building, Berlin, Germany, August 2008

Although daily schedules might slightly differ due to track maintenance, the European Sleeper overnight rail service is typically expected to leave at 22:56 from Berlin.

Amsterdam Centraal Station, the Netherlands, January 2014

From Berlin, you’ve got 7.5 hours until Amsterdam, where the European Sleeper is slated to arrive at Amsterdam Centraal — the model for Tokyo Station — at around 06:31.

An hour later, you’re in Rotterdam, one of the modern architecture centers of the continent:

Cube Houses (Cubuswoningen), Rotterdam, the Netherlands, February 2022

Then, Antwerp at 08:43:

Antwerp Train Station, Belgium, Feburary 2022 — Antwerp Train Station, Belgium, February 2022

Finally, Brussels by 09:27:

Oh, sorry about that. Can’t find my Brussels photos. No matter … let the European Sleeper take you there to snap your photos.

Speaking of which, the return journey from Brussels is expected to depart at 19:22 from Brussels Midi, and should make it to Berlin by 06:48.

Would you consider taking the European Sleeper?

Metro Access to Istanbul International Airport

January 30, 2024 by NoWorkAllTravel 6 Comments

If you, too, are as interested as I am in mass transit, then I’ve got some good news– there’s now metro access to Istanbul International Airport (IST).

On 29 January the M11 metro line, connecting IST to Gayrettepe transfer station near downtown Istanbul, started operations. For your reference, I’ve added a snippet of the official Istanbul metro map here:

a map of a subway system — IST Airport is in the upper left, on M11. Source: https://www.metro.istanbul/en/YolcuHizmetleri/AgHaritalari

For likely users of this new metro access to Istanbul International Airport, you will still need to transfer to get to the city’s attractions. Expect the ride from IST to Gayrettepe to take around 30 minutes. Depending on where your hotel is, you may want to transfer at the prior station, called Kağıthane.

(NWAT reader Zanzibar reminded me that the IST train had already been operation to Kağıthane since 22 January 2023. This short extension to Gayrettepe makes it that much easier for tourists heading to Taksim and Sultanahmet.)

As someone who has experienced both merciless Istanbul traffic, and shifty taxi drivers, this opening brings good tidings. There are still airport buses — for IST, there’s Havaist — which offer connections to locations on the European and Asian sides of town. More importantly, they also have late-night departures, i.e. when the metro isn’t running.

On my most recent trips to Istanbul, I have avoided IST as much as possible. For transfer flights, it didn’t really matter, but I had zero desire to repeat traffic woes. That’s why I always opted for Istanbul’s Asian hub, Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW). It, too, has an airport bus (Havabus), but I simply took the metro to my hotel, which in turn I started to book on the Asian side.

The fact that visitors now have metro access to both Istanbul airports merits praise. As for what’s next, how about more airport shuttles for IST-area hotels?

Manhattan’s Newest Beach

October 5, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

I present to you, Manhattan’s newest beach:

Facing the Statue of Liberty, Jersey City, and Hoboken (which are all located in New Jersey)

Fine, the official title of Manhattan’s newest beach is Gansevoort Peninsula.

And if you thought it was the first beach in Manhattan, well … it’s the first public beach. You see, there’s a small patch of flotsam and debris way up north on the island, near Spuyten Duyvil and the Bronx border. But let’s also not forget this forlorn spot of history, at East 20th Street and the East River.

However, we should be getting back to the main event.

In the Direction of Lower Manhattan (the awkwardly-named Freedom Tower can be seen in the distance)

In association with the Hudson River Park Trust, this project was initiated in March 2019. (if you’ve never been to New York City, the Hudson River Park allows one to pretty much cover the entirety of the Hudson River side of Manhattan by foot). It was expected to open in 2022, but unsurprisingly, the COVID-19 pandemic delayed things.

Now, you might be asking a few questions. Let me try to anticipate them.

1) What amenities does Manhattan’s newest beach offer?

A smattering of chairs and umbrellas, sand, a small garden path, and some restrooms nearby. It’s also nearby the Whitney Museum of American Art, Chelsea Piers (for sports and events), the Market 57 food hall, and a number of art galleries and boutiques.

2) Is swimming allowed?

Not unless you want to grow another limb.

Besides, on the flip side of the beach, there are plans to bring back oysters to the area. Let them be.

3) What the heck is that metal thing obstructing the Hudson River view?

Looking north towards the beach from Hudson River Park

Glad you asked. That’s “Day’s End,” a work by U.S. artist David Hammons. Basically, it is a contemporary framework of Pier 52, the pier which used to occupy that space. And it came first, so I suppose the beach is obstructing Hammons’ view.

4) Is Manhattan a north-south island?

First of all, this map won’t help you.

Anyway, I threw this question here as a bonus, especially considering the vast background shots afforded by visits to the beach.

No, Manhattan doesn’t run north-south … it’s more of a northeast southwest shape. That’s roughly the directions of the avenues.

As for east-west, if you want to delve further into Manhattan history, once you’ve left your mark on the beach, head southeast to Stuyvesant Street. That’s the closest to east-west as you’re going to get. This particular street divided two farms of the Stuyvesant family, and has been around since 1787.

Manhattan’s newest beach is in a popular neighborhood for residents and tourists alike; of course, I expect this beach to be significantly busier on weekends.

That said, this week might have been it for 2023’s warm NY weather. Which is to say, who’s up for forming a Gansevoort Peninsula polar bear club?

Japan Rail Souvenir … with a Catch

August 21, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

O.K., so you’ve added funds to your IC card, and are using the train to your heart’s content. But how do you keep track of all the places that you’ve been? Yes, your phone is likely stalking your location, but how about a less Orwellian approach? Allow me to introduce you to the following Japan rail souvenir:

As you may have gathered, the big catch is that you have to be able to read Japanese to enjoy it. The small catch is that it only lists the prior 20 swipes. Shucks.

But wait! Because I’m a nice guy, I will try to help you to better appreciate this Japan rail souvenir with a few translations.

Let’s look more closely at what had been printed out:

To start with, the four printed digits on the leftmost column refer to the date, obviously (in this case) in the month/day format. As for the rightmost column, we’ve got the balance (残額・ざんがく・zangaku); that means as of yesterday, I’ve got 2817 yen on my IC card. Note: The IC cards allow for up to 20000 to be stored, hence the asterisk.

Now let’s continue to the six red numbers.

入 = entered (a station)
出 = exited (a station)
物販 = you bought something, e.g. at a vending machine, convenience store, or food kiosk.
現金 = (added) cash (at a station). The word is げんきん, or genkin. If a cashier is asking how you’re going to pay, if it’s cash, say 現金で (genkin de), meaning “by cash.”
Here’s where the fun begins. The third column lists the station where you entered, or added cash to your IC card.
In this case, the station where I entered (notice the 入) is blurrily called Kunitachi (国立・くにたち).
That means the exit station (notice the 出) was Ōme (青梅・おおめ).
For extra visuals, check out that train route on a map.

These 20 swipes all happened in JR (Japan Rail) East territory, which includes the Tokyo metropolitan area. It was a mix of non-rail purchases, JR rail usage, and Seibu rail usage. Does it work for all rail lines throughout the country? I’m not sure. But it would definitely print out the same detail if you limited use to Tokyo’s metro (subway) systems.

Nevertheless, I hope that this guide can help you figure out where you’ve been, and where you should go next!

Tokyo Rail Travel Hack

August 13, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel 6 Comments

If you’re in the Tokyo area, and are carrying an IC card, I’ve got a Tokyo rail travel hack for you. (I mention Tokyo because I am most familiar with it. This hack may exist in other Japanese cities.)

Firstly, if you’re not sure what an IC card is, I will help out. IC cards are the prepaid — and rechargeable — contactless cards found throughout Japan. They’re valid on trains, buses, convenience stores, and some quick-service restaurants. Think London’s Oyster card, and Hong Kong’s Octopus card.

East Japan Railway (JR East) controls many of the rail lines in the Tokyo area; their IC card is the Suica. Pasmo was introduced years later, to be used by non-JR rail lines. These days, in Tokyo one can be easily used in place of the other.

Pictured above is my Icoca card. That one is issued by West Japan Railway (JR West); think Kanazawa, Osaka, and Kyoto. It can be used in the Tokyo metropolitan area, but cannot be obtained in Tokyo. Similarly, Suica and Pasmo cannot be obtained in Osaka or Kyoto.

IC cards from throughout the country can be used around Tokyo, too. In the same vein, you can also use Suica and Pasmo in other Japanese cities. There are exceptions — Japanese rail companies make strange bedfellows — but that’s a horse of another color.

Let’s move on to the Tokyo rail travel hack.

Seibu Shinjuku Train at Ogawa Station, Japan, site of the Tokyo rail travel hack — Seibu Shinjuku Train at Ogawa Station, Japan

Seibu (西武) is the Tokyo-area rail company that makes this Tokyo rail travel hack possible. If the name rings a bell, that’s because Seibu also operates department stores, and owns a baseball team called the Seibu Lions.

Seibu does have stops in major tourist spots such as Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, and Kawagoe city in Saitama prefecture, but it’s mostly for commuters.

Nevertheless, they’re a big help when you want to add value to your IC card. JR (Japan Rail) stations typically require a minimum of ¥500 or ¥1000 to top-up. This is made even more puzzling when you try to pass through a ticket gate with insufficient funds on your IC card, since you’re required to add a nonstandard amount anyway.

And how about Seibu stations? What’s the minimum value allowed?

I made a video to help you navigate through this travel hack:

Architectural Tourism

August 2, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

Architectural tourism is one of my priorities when traveling. However, there are undoubtedly some controversies involved in how certain structures are maintained.

One of the most controversial topics is façadism.

In the simplest terms, façadism – also known as facadism – refers to when the front-facing exterior (façade) of a building is preserved. This is independent what happens/has happened to the remaining part of the structure. For an example, let’s take this façade, located relatively near the eponymous food market in La Merced, Mexico City:

Mexico City might be a more nuanced place for facadism, if only because it is very prone to earthquakes. Indeed, there could be any number of occurrences as to why a façade would be salvaged; among those, historical preservation, unique beauty, and and a state beyond repair for the rest of the building are some of the more common reasons.

The concept of facadism has been controversial for years, though has become much more so due to the skyrocketing real estate prices in such cities as New York, London, and Sydney. Often availing of historic facades as a scapegoat for skyscraper projects that completely ignore the original building’s raison d’être, property developers are generally the last ones standing in a court battle with city officials and/or defiant communities.

To clarify, some of those facades might be on national lists of historic preservation, therefore cannot be bulldozed save for being in dangerous condition; that developers can do what they wish behind-the-scenes, so to speak, is just a facet of capitalism.

a tall building with many windows — Egyptian Revival Façade of the former Pennsylvania Fire Insurance Company, now part of Penn Mutual Tower, Philadelphia, USA

Façadism isn’t always done distastefully; though highly subjective, I tend to think the Greek Revival example serving as the entrance to the American wing in New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art is a standout. But, if you tend to think it’s all an eyesore, you might be interested to know that there used to be a tongue-in-cheek award – the Carbuncle Cup -given out annually to the worst offender in the United Kingdom.

Now that we’ve learned a bit about facadism, I hypothesize that there are other aspects of architectural grievances that are overlooked, particularly in the face of tourism. Namely, I am referring to Shiro Syndrome, a phrase that I originally concocted while visiting Osaka, Japan in 2005.

Shiro Syndrome – in Japanese, shiro 城 means “castle” – refers to the reconstruction of castles (and temples, shrines, historic sites, etc.), frequently with contemporary materials. This is not specific to Japan, but being that it’s one of my most-visited countries, I can’t help but think about it, especially one moment in Osaka that started it all:

Although construction started on the castle in 1583, due to a combination of domestic strife and lightning destroying earlier versions, the current ferro-concrete structure was finished in 1931. Further repairs were completed in 1997; an elevator was added soon after.

Which brings me to the question…do you think the present-day Osaka Castle should still be considered historic?

The same could be asked of many of the pagodas in Bagan, Myanmar:

Architectural Tourism: Bagan (Nyaung U), Myanmar — Bagan (Nyaung U) Pagodas, Myanmar

Bagan, which was the seat of an eponymous kingdom between the 9th and 13th centuries, saw the construction of hundreds of pagodas during that time. However, subsequent to a catastrophic earthquake in 1975, many pagodas were hastily renovated with modern technology; another earthquake in 2016 damaged many more pagodas, worrying historians and archeologists alike about how the repairs would be carried out.

UNESCO has even removed some sites from its World Heritage List due to a number of reasons. The most common of which involves redesigning or reinforcing a structure by employing contemporary methods. The consequence of this is the damage done to the building’s authenticity or structural integrity. Such is what happened with Bagrati’s Cathedral, located in Kutaisi, Georgia:

Architectural Tourism: Bagrati's Cathedral, Kutaisi, Georgia — Bagrati’s Cathedral, Kutaisi, Georgia

Finally, we have the now-obsolete Kawasaki Warehouse.

Architectural Tourism at the Former Kawasaki Warehouse — Kawasaki Warehouse, inspired by the ex- Kowloon Walled City in Hong Kong

The entire concept of the building was to capture the essence of Hong Kong’s infamous Kowloon Walled City, a massive ghetto which was finally razed in 1994. If you’re curious about how it looked, the movie Bloodsport was allowed to film inside the labyrinthine Kowloon Walled City.

Inside the Kawasaki Warehouse, a Former Hub of Architectural Tourism

Obviously, they couldn’t capture the gestalt of the Hong Kong site. So then, what was the point? The Japanese version wasn’t in a good location, not to mention it was mostly design, as opposed to having games or activities to relieve visitors of their cash. It seemed doomed to fail from the beginning.

What is your opinion of façadism, and/or historical reconstructions?

Japan Trip Report: JR East Pass (Tohoku Area)

July 26, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel 4 Comments

Although I’ve traveled throughout much of Japan, I embarrassingly didn’t once set foot in the Tohoku region until a few days ago. That’s where the rail pass, the JR East Pass (Tohoku Area), was of tremendous benefit.

Firstly, let’s define the Tohoku region (in Japanese, 東北 touhoku, meaning northeastern):

Tohoku Region, Japan (although Niigata Prefecture isn’t always included), Source: https://www.tohokukanko.jp/en/

The Tohoku region is generally characterized as (starting from the northernmost prefecture) Aomori, Akita, Iwate, Yamagata, Miyagi, and Fukushima. Niigata prefecture is much more likely to be included in the Hokuriku region, but here we are.

Rail Pass Map

This particular pass does the Tohoku region one better, and adds in Tokyo, Tochigi, Gunma, Kanagawa, Ibaraki, Yamanashi, Chiba, and parts of Nagano (sorry, not here) Niigata, and Shizuoka prefectures, too:

JR East Pass Tohoku Area Map, Source: https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/pass/eastpass_t.html

Airports in Tohoku aren’t well-connected with international flights. Sendai, the Tohoku region’s biggest city and busiest train station, is your best shot for an international route. If there are overseas flights, they’re likely to China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and/or South Korea.

Otherwise, that’s where the Tokyo connection comes in handy. Land in Tokyo Narita or Tokyo Haneda, use the pass to get to Tokyo or Ueno (shinkansen) station, then zip up north.

Who Can Buy It?

For some background on the JR East Pass (Tohoku Area), the most important aspect is that only non-Japanese passport holders can acquire it. In other words, whether you’re a tourist, or a foreign resident of Japan, the pass can be yours.

If you want to buy it online, you can get one at Eki Net (えきねっと; eki 駅 means train station).

Once you get to a train station, scan the resulting QR code and passport on this red-highlighted machine:

Multilingual JR Rail Pass Exchange Machine (the key is that this one has the passport scanner on the right)

Or, walk into any JR ticket booth to buy a ticket; again, you will need your passport.

Cost and Validity

As of July 2023, it costs ¥20,000, and is valid for five (5) consecutive days (but not 120 hours). Although you’re unlikely to have any issues after midnight on day “six,” just be aware of the validity period.

ETA: Bollocks. Per this japan-guide.com article, the price will be shooting up to ¥30,000, likely around 1 October.

n.b. it’s only really trains in the Tokyo area that are still running after midnight. My last train using the pass arrived after 00:00, but there were no problems.

Rail Pass Discounts

If you have the JR East Pass (Tohoku Area), JR East Pass (Nagano/Niigata Area), or the JR TOKYO Wide Pass, you can get some discounts at restaurants and shops around certain train stations.

The scheme is called &EKINAKA, and you can found out more about the bennies at this official website.

I didn’t personally avail of any offers; a lot of that has to do with A) forgetting about it, and B) being too busy touring Tohoku.

Which Trains Can I Use?

According to the earlier linked JR East Pass page, you can use the following trains (and buses):

JR East rail lines
Tokyo Monorail (most helpful between Tokyo Haneda Airport and Hamamatsucho station)
Izu Kyuko Line (Shizuoka prefecture)
Aoimori Railway Line (Aomori prefecture)
Iwate Galaxy Railway (IGR) Line (Iwate prefecture)
Sendai Airport Transit Line (takes about 25 minutes to Sendai station)
Reserved seats in ordinary cars of the following express trains with through operations between JR East and Tobu Railway lines: Nikko, Kinugawa, and SPACIA Kinugawa trains.
You can also use ordinary trains (including rapid trains) on the Tobu Railway lines between Shimo-imaichi and Tobu-Nikko / Kinugawa-onsen.
Between Kurihashi and Shimo-imaichi, you can only use express trains that have through operations with Tobu Railway.n.b. You cannot use express trains that both depart from and terminate at stations on Tobu Railway lines.
You can only use the pass on Tobu Railway lines if the train either departs from or terminates at a JR station.
JR buses in the area (excluding highway and some regular bus routes)

BRT, or bus rapid transit (Miyagi prefecture).- Bus information can be found here. I didn’t take any buses during the five days, but many points of interest can only be reached by bus or car.

To purchase train tickets on trains requiring seat reservations (e.g. some limited-express trains and some shinkansen/bullet trains), you have a couple of options. You can wait on the typically slow-moving lines at station ticket offices.
Or, you can attempt one of these ticket machines:

Multilingual JR Train Ticket Machines in Japan

The screen is indeed in Japanese, but that’s what I use to buy tickets. Other written languages offered are English, simplified and traditional Chinese, and Korean.

It’s not the smoothest process in any language; the best advice I can give is to put your pass in the lower left slot first, to eliminate invalid options.

Where Did I Go?

JR East Tohoku Pass Ticket Train Souvenirs

What you might have noticed after looking at the tickets is that they don’t all have English on them. Seems ironic, considering that it’s a train pass for non-Japanese citizens. Not sure if this is going to be changed, but that’s why it helps to confirm the departure and arrival times (and all other pertinent details) while still at the ticket counter/machine.

As for the red ink on the actual pass ticket, the first three times you go through a shinkansen gate, that’s how it’s recorded.

On With the Destinations Already!

Two Shinkansen Linked Together at Ueno Station, Tokyo

Some of you probably guessed by now that food played a big role in the itinerary development. It did, but I also wanted to visit a couple of naturally beautiful spots, as well as visit one place that’s been on the Japan list for about a decade.

a bridge with red railings and a sign — Bridges to Godaido (Buddhist Hall), Matsushima Kaigan

Matsushima Kaigan Station, Miyagi Prefecture

Matsushima, which means “pine island(s),” is renowned in Japan for just that. Take a short cruise around the pine archipelago, or just amble along the coast for some nice views.

Nebuta Festival Floats, Aomori (1) — Panasonic Nebuta Festival Floats, Aomori

Nebuta Festival Floats, Aomori (2) — Hitachi Nebuta Festival Floats, Aomori

The Nebuta Festival happens every August in Aomori city, Aomori prefecture. Its origins are unknown; some say it has to do with Tanabata, or the “star festival.”

Depicting mythical and historical characters, floats, called nebuta, are carried around downtown Aomori, and accompanied by dancing folks called haneto.

Because it was so close to the start of the festival, there were public previews of the floats being finished.

Sannai Maruyama Jomon Historical Site, Aomori

Reconstructed Long House, Sannai Maruyama Jomon Historical Site

Storage Pits, Sannai Maruyama Jomon Historical Site

The Jomon period in Japan happened approximately between 13,000 BCE and 400 CE. There were many different hunter-gatherer tribes during the Jomon era. They were known for digging storage pits, microlithic tools, conducting trade in long houses, and eventually, pottery.

Which brings me to….

Shako-chan Doguu at Kizukuri Station, Aomori

What does that caption even mean?

Shako-chan is the nickname for the doguu mascot of Kizukuri train station. Doguu (土偶) are clay figurines that were representative of late Jomon-era ceramics. The original Shako-chan was discovered at the Kamegaoka archeological site, in Tsugaru city, Aomori prefecture.

The station is conveniently called Yamadera; it translates as “mountain temple(s).”

It’s a short but step-filled (so many steps) hike up, but oh how I’d like to return in the autumn.

Clean air, beautiful views, good food … Yamadera was a highlight, to be sure.

Goku Gyoza Restaurant, Utsunomiya, Tochigi Prefecture

The Golden Ratio for Gyoza: 4 Parts Vinegar, 1 Part Soy Sauce — The “Golden Ratio” (黄金比 *ougonhi*) for Gyoza Dipping: 4 Parts Vinegar, 1 Part Soy Sauce

I had been wanting to visit Utsunomiya, capital of Tochigi prefecture, for years. Why? It’s Japan’s most famous place for gyoza, or pan-fried dumplings.

It’s not as if they’re hard to find elsewhere, but hey, I’m a food guy.

If either building were a hotel, take a wild guess as to which room they’d give me.

I had a great time exploring Tohoku (and Utsunomiya) with the JR East Pass (Tohoku Area). In fact, I’m already planning a return for autumn next year; I bet the fall foliage makes the scenery that much more alluring.

If you have any questions about the pass, and/or Japan travel, just ask!

Crossing China’s Newest Border with Hong Kong

July 9, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

Last week, after flying in to Hong Kong, I wanted to use the new(est) China Hong Kong border crossing to reach Shenzhen.

For background, the Chinese side is called Liántáng (莲塘), and the Hong Kong side Heung Yuen Wai (香園圍). It is located in the Luo Hu district of Shenzhen, in a more residential part of town (the Chinese map doesn’t reflect any border). This border crossing, which opened in 2020, was available only to cargo traffic during COVID-19. However, earlier this year, on 8 February, it became the second possible crossing for pedestrians; part of the goal was to alleviate pressure on the heavily trafficked Luo Hu/Lo Wu checkpoint.

Shenzhen Luo Hu (Lo Wu) Border Checkpoint with Hong Kong

That there’s a new China Hong Kong border crossing isn’t so surprising; what is key in this particular set-up is that pedestrians finally have another choice. The Liantang checkpoint is open daily from 07:00 – 22:00. (link in Chinese)

You see, besides Luo Hu/Lo Wu, at every other immigration checkpoint, you would either have to take a car or bus (which might leave you behind if you’re the only non-local), a boat, or ehem, a plane.

But how does one even reach the Liantang/Heung Yuen Wai new border crossing?

Here’s the current reality: Hong Kong doesn’t make it easy.

No matter where you’re coming from — whether it’s on the A43 bus from the airport, or on the MTR — your first stop should be Sheung Shui station. It’s the transit hub of the northernmost part of Hong Kong, and offers options to a few different Shenzhen checkpoints.

When I first read about Heung Yuen Wai, I was regaled with stories about the B7 bus, going between Sheung Shui and that border. Well, my flight landed late, and I only made it to Sheung Shui around 20:00, so there wasn’t much time to waste. As per the B7 schedule, I walked to Po Wan Road, but couldn’t find a bus stop for it. (Po Wan Road was clearly NOT in the main transit hub area).

Given the time (remember, the Heung Yuen Wai border closed at 22:00, so the last bus there would be leaving around 21:00), I hopped on another public bus to try to cross at Man Kam To/Wenjindu. Well, if you had read this far, you’d know that the Man Kam To crossing wasn’t open to pedestrians. Thus, I had to hop on that same bus back to Sheung Shui.

By the time I was back in Sheung Shui, it was around 20:47. What to do? Take the easy way out, and hop on the train to Lo Wu? Or, keep taking the Heung Yuen Wai bait?

Bait.

The biggest issue I have with this new border crossing is that the names on either side of the border are completely different. As Luo Hu/Lo Wu and Man Kam To/Wenjindu are similar enough, the entire time, I was looking for the Cantonese version of Liantang. Wrong. For whatever reason, it’s Heung Yuen Wai.

After that epiphany on the bus back to Sheung Shui, I found out that there was also a minibus going to the border, the 59S:

Hong Kong Sheung Shui Minibus to Shenzhen Liantang Border Crossing.jpg

If you’re familiar with the Hong Kong MTR, you can clearly see its logo in the background of the photo. Take Exit D of Sheung Shui station, and then cross into the minibus parking lot.

I just made the last or penultimate minibus to border, at a shade before 21:00.
Less than 20 minutes later, I was faced with more confusing Hong Kong signage. That’s when I got annoyed, because I didn’t want to have to return to Sheung Shui, lest this border close.

A random elevator ride later, and I was finally at the immigration area. The HK side was empty, and the Chinese side surprised to see a non-local passing through. Yet, just 15 minutes later, I was already at the bus stop to go downtown. (there is also a metro station, called Liántáng Kǒu’àn 莲塘口岸, right outside of the immigration building)

I hope that this review of the new border crossing can help people who are going between China and Hong Kong but who also don’t want to deal with the craziness in Luo Hu. I can’t say that this facility is convenient on the Hong Kong side, since a bus or taxi is required. But once you’re in Sheung Shui, you can get all over Hong Kong … or do what I used to do, and try to collect a stamp from every checkpoint!

Forgotten about Overnight Rail in Europe?

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Manhattan’s Newest Beach

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Japan Rail Souvenir … with a Catch

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Japan Trip Report: JR East Pass (Tohoku Area)

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