Mexico

Airport Review: Felipe Ángeles International Airport, Mexico City

September 30, 2025 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

Long before it had a name, Felipe Ángeles International Airport (NLU) was the subject of a pointless national survey held soon after Andrés Manuel López Obrador became president in 2018.

Theoretically, the survey involved the then-current construction of Mexico City’s second airport in Texcoco, east of the capital’s primary airport (MEX).

2018 Consulta Nuevo Aeropuerto Mexico City — 2018 Consulta sobre el Nuevo Aeropuerto Mexico City

Long story short, very few Mexicans participated in the poll, but it didn’t matter, for the former president already had plans to convert the Santa Lucia airbase into the city’s next air hub.

By the by, the abandoned Texcoco airport is still visible for flights coming/going from the east of MEX; apparently, the site is being converted into a vast park.

Abandoned Mexico City Airport Texcoco, early 2021

In spite of joining the collective sighs of Mexico City residents and tourists when the much closer Texcoco project was cancelled, to me any new airport was still somewhere to add to the list.

Getting to Felipe Ángeles International Airport

Besides the usual rideshare options such as Uber, there’s also the ADO bus from Mexico City’s Terminal Norte. Then, you have the less convenient — but ostensibly less subject to traffic — BRT (bus rapid transit) lines Metrobús and Mexibús. Finally, there’s the option of rail, which will likely open this December.

Last Thursday, when I had my flight at NLU, I checked the options for getting there. Uber was to be a bit over an hour from my hotel in Zócalo, and the BRT, around an hour 40 minutes.

Zocalo Mexico City to Felipe Angeles International Airport, source: https://maps.google.com/

Since I woke up way too early, I opted for a nice early morning walk to Hidalgo to start my BRT journey.

The tl;dr version is: look askance when google maps suggests something. I’m just glad I was up early because the BRT — with its three transfers, bad signage, and random requirement to purchase another type of transit card — took about three hours and 15 minutes to reach NLU.

Ojo de Agua Typical Mexibús Station — Ojo de Agua Mexibús Station

Metrobús "Violence" Sign — Metrobús “Violence” Sign

What’s it like at Felipe Ángeles International Airport?

Felipe Ángeles International Airport Sign NLU

Having only opened in March 2022, NLU, like many Mexican airports, was named for a prominent figure during the Mexican Revolution.

It’s still in good shape, but I’m always about function over form.

High ceilings and open spaces are no match for efficiency; to wit, I had been waiting at the Aeroméxico check-in desks for 25 minutes (there were only four people ahead of me) before giving up and checking-in online. Yes, I originally wanted the tangible ticket as a souvenir from the newish airport.

Then again, there were no security queues, given the general lack of flights. The added bonus was that all of the security checkpoints have the scanners in which nothing had to be removed from the bags.

Airside, there are heaps of dining and shopping options.

For those of you with Priority Pass, as of now there are two domestic lounges, and one international lounge available.

I visited both of the domestic lounges.

First up, VIPort Lounge, by gate 107.

It had loud (and irritating) music playing, but also had a few snacks and drinks.

The only benefit I see to VIPort Lounge NLU is that it offered water bottles.

The more appealing lounge has an absurdly long name, Hacienda Santa Lucia by the Grand Lounge Elite. I just call it HSLTGLE, which I will be trying out in my next Airport Scrabble game. It’s not necessarily near any gate, but I suppose the best way to describe its location is by turning right from the domestic security checkpoint, and just hug the wall until you make it.

Hacienda Santa Lucia by The Grand Lounge Elite (HSLTGLE) Entrance

If there’s one thing that gets my goat in Mexico — besides the food vendors using the same hand to both take money and prepare food — it’s the lack of headphones. Sure enough, a couple of passengers in this lounge were doing the speaker phone thing. What a treat.

In any event, HSLTGLE has a small buffet, menu of small plates and drinks, massage area, and golf simulator.

Hacienda Santa Lucia by The Grand Lounge Elite food

Staff were nice, and mentioned something about a golf cart to take certain guests to their gate(s). I wonder if this service will still be around even after NLU gets busy.

I might try flying through Felipe Ángeles International Airport once the train opens, or if I have to get to Hidalgo. Until then, with unpredictable traffic, and not many hotels in the area, I’m sticking with the festering heap of MEX.

Hotel Review: Meliá Puerto Vallarta

September 29, 2025 by NoWorkAllTravel 2 Comments

For my first-ever all-inclusive stay, I think Meliá Puerto Vallarta in Mexico did a pretty good job of setting the bar.

Following another delicious visit to Mexico City, it was time to wind-down my visit with a brief stop in Puerto Vallarta. I was invited to stay at Meliá Puerto Vallarta this September during the region’s low season, i.e. when storms are more likely.

Well, I didn’t see any storms, but I did get some fantastic sunsets.

Location

The hotel is in a very good location, just minutes from Puerto Vallarta International Airport (PVR), shopping, and the local marina. Per the above photos, it’s also on a beach, providing great panoramas of downtown Vallarta in the distance, as well as its occasional fireworks displays.

Not to mention, the property’s beach is a common spot for a variety of turtle species to lay eggs; consequently, the hotel has a permanent incubation shelter close to the beach and pool.

After a long commute to Mexico City’s second commercial airport (NLU) — more on that in the next post — I wanted to take a nice constitutional. That started with about a 35-minute walk from PVR to the Meliá Puerto Vallarta.

Check-in

A check-in agent by the name of Ian introduced me to an affable and responsible guest services staffer named Hector. Hector had very detailed knowledge of the hotel, and was glad to help no matter the ridiculousness of my questions; when he wasn’t around, a nice woman named Montserrat was just as capable.

It’s important for me to highlight that staff were generally very nice, and often went out of their way to guide me somewhere, or discuss menus. From Francisco at the breakfast restaurant Mosaico, to Brenda and Judith at Fish House, and Israel at the cabana, there are some good folks on the team.

However, as a big fan of architecture, I was rather distracted by the airy and expansive lobby.

Many events happen throughout different part of the lobby, such as live music shows during some nights. not to mention, it is also the site of the main hotel bar.

Plus, if you, too, are a billiards fan, you won’t be disappointed.

Room

Tabachin (Royal Poinciana Tree)- — Tabachin (Royal Poinciana Tree) with Rooms in Background

After dealing with the Puerto Vallarta humidity, it was ever so welcoming to enter a room of highly conditioned air.

In total, the property has 324 rooms and suites.

My room, on the 9th floor (the highest floor), was recently renovated. All of Meliá Puerto Vallarta’s rooms are gradually being redone; if my room is the average result, then they did a very good job.

And it had a spanking terrace view, too:

View from my 9th Floor Room — View from my Terrace

There were ample power points, the lighting was solid, and the robe and slippers worked wonders. If I had one little complaint, it would be that the water pressure in the shower was mercurial.

In any event, even when the mariachi music was playing in the lobby, it was barely discernable. I was able to get a lot of writing done, so the soundproofed terrace doors were a big perk.

Amenities & Hotel Grounds

First and foremost, it’s a family-oriented property. Many of the activities are child-oriented; those include a playground, batting cage, mini-golf, and a rock climbing wall (muro de escalar).

Of course, the centerpiece of the hotel grounds is the pool.

There are areas for both kids and adults to swim in, as well as a brick-oven pizza and snack stand, an event hall (e.g. with acrobats and contortionists), and ample loungers.

If swimming isn’t your thing — or it is, and you want a break — head down one of the covered corridors…

to the YHI Spa.

Feeling more active than that? Try the gym, which is back in the lobby.

And then there’s the beach, which is small, but still as welcoming as ever.

Oh, right, how can I forget the cabanas?

You can reserve a cabana, which really makes for a relaxing space alone, or with friends/family.

Have a drink and some Mexican ceviche while you’re at it!

Shrimp Mexican Ceviche with Coconut Water and Tostadas

Since I’ve not-so-accidentally transitioned to the topic of food, let’s get down to it.

Food

There are three restaurants — Fish House, Mole & Tacos, and Mosaico — included in the standard rate, as well as the bar, and poolside snack/pizza hut.

All Four Restaurants in one Compact Sign — The Restaurants in one Compact Sign

For those who are open to paying extra, Tauro, a carnivore’s delight, is another possibility. Tauro actually forms part of Mole & Tacos.

Included in my package was Mosaico, the breakfast/lunch/dinner buffet hotbed, Fish House, and Mole & Tacos.

Let’s start with Mosaico.

It was typically heaving with families, so I didn’t want to steam in with my camera. In spite of that, they had a mix of Mexican specialties, casual U.S. staples such as burgers and hot dogs, a salad bar, desserts, and a range of juices, tea, and coffee.

–

Mosaico was the low-point of my stay. It was mediocre at best, but the service was still good.

Now, let’s head to some excellent eats over at Fish House.

From the moment I started chatting with Brenda, the restaurant supervisor, and Judith, one of the waitresses, I knew I was in good hands.

Nearly everything I ordered — or had them surprise me with — was on point.

a plate of food with sauce on it — Tuna Tostada

With the depressing caveat that garlic is a no-go, I was somewhat limited at both Fish House, and Mole & Tacos. I couldn’t get the octopus at the former, nor some of the spicier plates at the latter, since many of the ingredients were pre-made.

Regardless, I had a decent dinner at Mole & Tacos the following night.

a menu on a table — Mole & Tacos Menu Front

Which dishes could I go for here (based on the garlic issue)?

Tuba (drink) with Totopos (chips) and Salsa

Perhaps the most interesting part of my second night’s dinner was a drink called tuba. I have been wanting to try it for years, but in Mexico it’s mostly limited to the state of Colima.

Tuba is a beverage consisting of fermented coconut and nipa palm sap. It was darn good!

Food history teacher time– tuba, along with the trusty coconut palm– originated in the Philippines. The Spanish brought them both to Mexico (branching out from Acapulco) during the times of the Manila Galleon, roughly 1565-1815.

In all, I had a nice stay at the Meliá Puerto Vallarta. Employees were up to snuff, the Fish House and cabana were food highlights, and my room was just about as comfortable as it could be.

Thank you again to the Meliá Puerto Vallarta folks for inviting me to a 2-night stay.

Two New U.S. Routes for Aeromexico

January 27, 2025 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

Stand by, SkyTeam members, and Mexico fans alike: two new U.S. routes for Aeromexico are coming your way.

Let’s start with Mexico’s capital, Mexico City.

From 5 June, Delta’s partner south of the border will be inaugurating flights from the city’s main airport (MEX) to Philadelphia (PHL).

Aeromexico MEX-PHL — MEX-PHL, one of two new U.S. routes for Aeromexico

Capable of seating 160-166 passengers depending upon the configuration, Aeromexico (AM) will be sending Boeing 737 MAX 8 daily to Pennsylvania’s largest city. Between 2018 and 2019, American Airlines was the first to try out Mexico City from its PHL hub, but clearly it didn’t get ‘er done.

Philadelphia is AM’s second U.S. addition for 2025, following the announcement of a service resumption to Phoenix (PHX) this March.

And how about the other half of those two new U.S. routes for Aeromexico?

Atlanta’s ears are burning.

The world’s busiest airport by passenger count, and undoubtedly Delta’s biggest hub, Atlanta (ATL) is getting a flight to a northern Mexico city, San Luis Potosí (SLP).

In addition to being relatively near some of Mexico’s most pristine natural attractions, the city of San Luis Potosí is also home to a growing car manufacturing industry.

Notwithstanding the relatively small population, the flight is expected to be daily, using one of Aeromexico’s fleet of Embraer 190s.

Will either of these new routes attempt to topple the vast Dallas DFW – Cancun CUN traffic, served by an average of 86 weekly flights back as of 2023?

Nah.

But these two new U.S. routes for Aeromexico signal that there’s plenty of growth potential between these countries.

Hotel Review: Kimpton Virgilio, Mexico City

January 11, 2025 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

Disclaimer: In exchange for a hosted stay, I am writing this review of Kimpton Virgilio.

Kimpton Virgilio Exterior, source: hotel

After a nice stay that was coincidentally almost across the street, it was time for my first Kimpton experience.

As the newest hotel in Polanco — it will be celebrating its 1st anniversary this February — the Kimpton Virgilio, an IHG hotel, still seemed to have that polished look.

In accord with the rest of its Polanco neighbors, at only 48 rooms and suites, the property is quite small. Amusingly, I actually walked by the entrance a couple of times before giving up and passing through the doors of Pepe, its in-house restaurant. Indeed, the hotel lobby might as well be the size of a Hong Kong apartment…that is to say, it’s compact.

Kimpton Virgilio Entrance, and Pepe restaurant — Kimpton Virgilio Entrance on the extreme left, and Pepe restaurant

Location & Access

Close to a number of restaurants, shops, and cafes, the hotel is also a short walk to Chapultepec Park, and the National Museum of Anthropology.

Public transit isn’t so easy if you’re coming from MEX, the primary international airport, but Uber worked out quite well when it wasn’t rush hour; it was only 35 minutes from the hotel to Terminal 1.

However, if you are keen on public transportation, the Metrobus stations of Campo Marte and Auditorio are quite close. Grab a multifunctional transit card (it works on the metro, cable cars, buses, trams, etc.) first, then take a bus down Paseo de la Reforma towards Campo Marte.

Check-in & Room

Although I had to wait a short time, I was able to check-in early. Still, I can’t wrap my noggin around that tiny lobby…do they not expect more than one party to check-in at a time?

They offered a welcome drink while I waited at the more spacious Pepe restaurant.

Before heading to the room, I wanted to take advantage of empty hallways for some photos:

a building with plants growing on the ground — Atrium

a spiral staircase in a building — Atrium 2, source: hotel

a group of plants in a garden — Atrium 3

Airy and leafy, I always appreciate a good hotel atrium. The one at Kimpton Virgilio had the advantage of an assortment of plants scattered throughout.

How about my room?

The first thing I noticed, besides the rather inviting bed, was the lack of a workstation. Where’d it go? No business travelers here?

One other annoying thing was that the switch that controlled the living room light also controlled that of the bedroom. There were smaller lights, but those had far fewer lumens.

a bed with purple curtains — Bedroom Looking towards Terrace

a bedroom with a large bed and a mirror — Bedroom Looking towards Living Room

The bathroom was immaculate, the shower pressure great, and the soaps and shampoo had some wildly unexpected aromas…all good!

As you may have noticed in the above video, there were two patios. However, one had the displeasure of a constant generator sound; perhaps it was coming from the hotel gym just down the hall?

And I do mean right down the hall.

a room with exercise machines and treadmills — Gym

Stingy lighting, but serviceable gym, innit?

Dining

I happened to be able to enjoy one breakfast and one dinner at Pepe, or Pepe Mesa Española to be more correct.

As a welcoming, convivial place to grab a bite and a drink or two, I liked the fact that there was also very good ventilation. Given how nice the temperature is for much of the average Mexico City day, the doors to Pepe were left wide open for most of its operating hours.

Speaking of which…

Kitchen: Monday – Sunday7:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Bar: Monday – Sunday7:00 a.m. – 1:00 a.m.

Back Seating 2 — Back Seating with Atrium View

Let’s start with what I had for breakfast.

Whereas I did order…

Scrambled Eggs with Avocado and Grilled Chilies

I barely finished the plate. Why? Good reason. I had a lengthy and amiable conversation with one of the lead f&b crew, Rocío Elizabeth. As much as I want to eat just about everything in Mexico, having a good chat often leaves a more indelible image.

Dinner though, that was fun.

It was a tasting menu of some of the restaurant’s highlights, which appeared to infuse some Japanese flavors into a number of dishes. Each plating was paired with wine or beer, or for the dessert course, an espresso cocktail. Given the alcohol — and Spanish elements — involved, you can be sure I ordered bread with olive oil and sprinkled with smoky pimentón (paprika).

To begin, a delicious serving of calçot, a type of green onion from Catalonia (which calls Barcelona its capital):

Calçot with muhammara, and a Mahou beer — Calçot with muhammara, fried almonds, aioli, and a Mahou beer

Already we have another candidate for a top five eat of 2025! The calçot was beautifully grilled, and imparted a naturally sweet addition to the otherwise savory dish. Muhammara is a Syrian dip made of walnuts, roasted red bell peppers, pomegranate molasses, and migas, or bread crumbs.

In other words, it was a one-two punch of holy moly, was that good.

Up next…

Jamón Ibérico dumplings, with a sherry broth and pickled chilies.

As much as I like dumplings, these were rather lacking in the ham department. Still, good sauce.

Huevos rotos with fries, chistorra, Jamón Ibérico, and parsley

Huevos rotos is a Madrid specialty. Take an egg, poach it in lots of olive oil, then lay it to rest on a bed of fries. Yeah, it’s that healthy.

Pepe’s version was a more upscale one, with fries, chistorra (a type of chorizo), jamón Ibérico, and parsley. And a glass of Kung Fu Girl wine (oddball name, but quite tasty).

The potatoes could have used a bit more salt, but instead of that, I just ordered a lot of bread.

Main dish time.

Pressed lamb au jus with artichoke and ginger and apple purée, — Pressed lamb au jus with artichoke and ginger and apple purée

Ooh, another winner.

I’m typically against something sweet showing up in my dinner, but the sugars and slight kick of the purée sure did help offset the richness of the lamb. Artichokes, too, are another overlooked vegetable that seem to only ever get fried, or mashed into dips. Good job!

By this point, I was open to not having dessert…but then I suddenly had an image of a porra with hot chocolate. What’s a porra? A churro that has eaten too many other churros.

Eh, they didn’t have porra, but the churro bites sufficed. As did the fried arroz con leche balls, and the cheesecake-on-a-stick.

Good, attentive service by Lobato and Neri, too.

After taking a short pause, I went to the Peruvian-influenced rooftop bar, La Caña.

First, here are a few day and night shots.

a patio with a large umbrella and a couch — Umbrella Seating

a bench with pillows on it — Bench Seating

a pool with a bench and a brick building — Plunge Pool

a patio with a tree and umbrella — La Caña al freso

a patio with a covered area with chairs and a table — Cabanas, source: hotel

La Caña’s kitchen is open daily from 9am – 11pm, and there’s a live DJ nightly from Thursday – Saturday, and during Sunday afternoon.

Due to a busy schedule, I didn’t spend too much time up there, but it was quite amenable to wiling away hours with friends and colleagues.

La Caña Cocktail — La Caña cocktail with a drop of absinthe

In spite of lacking a proper workstation, and the presence of a loud generator in one of the patio spaces, I had a rather tranquil stay at Kimpton Virgilio. The food worked, service was friendly, and the location was quiet.

Hotel Review: Las Alcobas, Mexico City

January 10, 2025 by NoWorkAllTravel 4 Comments

Disclaimer: In exchange for a hosted stay at Las Alcobas, I am writing this review.

Las Alcobas - Entrance, source: Las Alcobas PR — Las Alcobas – Entrance, source: hotel

In the heart of the leafy and eminently walkable Polanco district, Mexico City’s Las Alcobas, a member of Marriott’s The Luxury Collection, is a gem of a boutique hotel. And I do mean boutique; at only 35 total rooms and suites, it was a 180° shift from my recent Shanghai stay.

Having opened in 2010 in a former private residence along Avenida Presidente Masaryk, one of the most affluent thoroughfares in the city, the hotel has been a hit since the get-go. The entirety of the hotel was designed by the NY/Toronto-based firm Yabu Pushelberg; I would describe the ambience as muted yet sleek.

Spiral Staircase connecting all floors to the lobby

As important as any other factor was the service level, and Las Alcobas did not disappoint. Although I found it somewhat irritating having to wait for someone to open the hotel door, personnel were clearly well-trained and eager to assist. Darwin was a helpful chap at reception, and behind-the-scenes, Michaël was quite affable.

Location & Access

Polanco is an upscale dining and shopping neighborhood in Mexico City, that also happens to be near the Mexico headquarters of many multinational corporations. However, my favorite part about the area is the proximity to Chapultepec Park, the city’s most prominent greenspace, and the National Museum of Anthropology. The museum is master class. Simple as.

Indeed, Las Alcobas is near it all, but don’t overlook its own Anatol restaurant…more on that later!

If you’re curious about transport, around 1:30pm at Terminal 1 of MEX, I used Uber, which took around 35-40 minutes. I can’t fathom how long the ride would take in rush hour.

Otherwise, the metro isn’t particularly convenient, and using Metrobus — with the closest stations being Campo Marte or Auditorio — requires getting downtown first.

Room

I was given a corner room that overlooked Avenida Presidente Mazaryk and had plenty of natural light.

The system that controlled the fixtures and a/c was wonky — multiple times I had to tap the button twice for it to do something — but perhaps the goal is for guests to stick to the bedside tablet.

I’m much more open to calling a human than using a tablet/QR code.

As for the work desk, I wish that it were slightly wider, although it was quite functional.

Plus, in one of the desk drawers, there was a neat surprise for armchair geography buffs like myself:

In addition to my room type, there are also Suites with living and dining areas, as well as Penthouse Suites with private terraces.

The bathroom was large, with separate spaces for the Toto Washlet and the shower. Not to mention, there’s a jacuzzi tub; you can have a staffer help you arrange an aromatherapy bath.

Bathing amenities include body soap, hand cream, shampoo, and conditioner by Bvlgari, and herbal soaps from Manos Que Curan, a niche Mexican brand. The Bvlgari products can be purchased at the hotel.

As for r&r, I did occasionally hear obnoxious guests from the U.S. outside of my door, but staff were quiet.

Spa

I’m not much of a spa person, but you might be glad to know that Las Alcobas has its own version, called Aurora Spa. From what I was told, some of the tonics and ingredients used in Aurora Spa’s therapies are indigenous to Mexico. That’s cool!

Spa Molcajete and Tejolote (Mortar and Pestle), source: hotel

Dining

Las Alcobas invited me one night to enjoy dinner at Anatol, its in-house restaurant that has a guest entrance, and a public entrance.

Firstly, I’d like to give shout-outs to Joaquin, Raymundo, Santiago, and Hugo in the restaurant. With Joaquin, I had a lengthy chat about food, Mexico, and a number of other topics, but he was also on-point about being part of the waitstaff. Raymundo, Santiago, and Hugo were good at anticipating my requests without my having to ask for more salsa, coffee, or another pastry.

Anatol’s hours of operation are:

Breakfast (for Hotel Guests only): Monday to Sunday | 06h30 am – 11h30 am
Light Brunch (for Hotel Guests only): Monday to Sunday | 11h30 am – 01h00 pm
Lunch & Dinner (open to public): Monday to Saturday | 01h00 pm – 10h00 pm
Lunch & Dinner (open to public): Sunday | 01h00 pm – 05h00 pm

To be candid, I was hoping for a pan-Mexico menu. In fact, it’s really more of a hodgepodge of seasonally-prepared dishes from Mexico and beyond, trying to cater to international taste buds.

In case you’re already on the plane to Mexico City, here’s the menu to review:

In any event, my dinner was quite good, with the real star being the esquites de langosta, i.e. a type of corn salad with lobster. I think I’d even place it in my top five meals of 2025, even though the year has just begun!

a bowl of food on a table — Another View of Seafood Esquites

It’s not a flavor combo I want to forget anytime soon.

Up next was squash blossom tempura filled with a variety of cheeses.

That one was rather heavy, so I ordered an excellent margarita & a seltzer to follow.

a glass with a drink in it — Ensenada 1941, Casa Dragones Blanco tequila, orange liqueur, lime juice, salt from Colima state

It would be no hyperbole to say that margaritas are one of my favorite types of cocktails, but wow this one was first-class.

Thereafter, I tried the Las Alcobas signature drink, the Bloody Oaxacan:

The Bloody Oaxacan was fun, too. Union Espardin mezcal imparts the smokiness, while the ginger and jalapeño give it some heat. The color comes from a mix of hibiscus foam, lime juice, and pineapple juice.

Back to the food.

I think finished everything in this photo in less than two minutes, it was that satisfying. But there was another factor…I wanted the bread to diminish any possibility of a resaca, or hangover.

Turkey, in Mexico?!

For sure. Go to the Yucatan and you’ll see that it’s a popular protein yonder.

But this dish was more along the lines of an upgraded Thanksgiving– roasted turkey breast, confit thigh, brioche stuffing, sweet potato puree, caramelized Brussels sprouts, country pancetta gravy, and thyme kumquat relish.

With turkey being rather filling, I appreciated the multitude of flavors surrounding it, especially the vastly underrated grilled Brussels sprouts, and the sour sweetness of the kumquat.

And you know what, I couldn’t even fathom trying a dessert.

Luckily, for breakfast, waiters periodically walkaround with pastry baskets. Considering that it was still around Christmas time, I went for a rosca de reyes, or three kings cake:

Then a nice plate of fresh fruit.

With the fruit followed by my breakfast from two different days.

Enfrijoladas, basically “covered with beans,” sliced avocado, and salsa macha, made with peanuts and garlic. I told Santiago, one of the waistaff, that the salsa wasn’t spicy enough; he informed Hugo for the next day to bring me a spicier one. Good call!

Manchamanteles, or “stain the tablecloth.” It’s a type of Oaxacan mole made with chicken, quesillo (Oaxacan cheese similar to mozzarella), sesame seeds, and a host of other ingredients. It was served with sweet plantains (score), and a bona fide spicy salsa (score again).

If I get the chance to return, there’s plenty more I’d like to try on both menus!

I can see why Las Alcobas gets high praise. From the service and comfort, to the food and ease-of-access, it’s definitely a place to look into booking the next time you’re in town and want to relax.

My Top Five Eats of 2023

January 3, 2024 by NoWorkAllTravel 2 Comments

As usual, it was difficult to create a top five list of an entire year’s worth of eating. There could easily be numerous top five lists; after all, the periscope is always up in the search for the most clickbait-friendly of titles.

But that’s tiresome. Instead, I will present you with a single list of my top five eats of 2023.

Let’s start with … Georgia.

Firstly, I’m going to start calling Georgia by its native name, Sakartvelo (საქართველო). This is to distinguish it from the U.S. state with countless streets named after peach trees.

Georgian Food (country of Georgia-Sakartvelo) — Clockwise from top-left: nigvziani badrijani & Adjaruli khachapuri, nigvziani badrijani/pickles & Rachuli lobiani, mchadi with various pkhali, and more Rachuli lobiani with nigvziani badrijani

Secondly, Sakartvelo cuisine is too good to limit it to one meal. The same could be said about any of the countries on this list, but I will allow myself this one opportunity to present a collage.

For translations of the above goods, here’s a small glossary:

Adjaruli khachapuri (აჭარული ხაჭაპური) – bread canoe filled with Sulguni cheese, eggs, and butter.
Mchadi (მჭადი) – fried bread made of cornmeal.
Nigvziani badrijani (ნიგვზიანი ბადრიჯანი) – fried eggplant rolls filled with garlicky walnut paste.
Pkhali (ფხალი) – appetizers par excellence, pkhali are vegetables mixed with garlic-laden walnut paste. Typically, the most popular pkhali are beets, white or kidney beans, and spinach.
Rachuli lobiani (რაჭული ლობიანი) – flaky bread filled with beans (these days, usually kidney beans) and onions.

Plus, if you’re into wine, Sakartvelo is the home of viniculture; don’t forget to try an glass or two of an amber.

Mexico City, Mexico

Ginger, lime, guava, alfalfa, and orange juice & chorizo verde/habanero chorizo tacos with guacamole

I’m not cheating this time, because half of the picture is a beverage.

Yep, one of the many glorious aspects of gastronomy in Mexico is the juice stall. There’s typically at least one in every mercado (market), but they also appear street-side.

On the left, I ordered a juice made of ginger, lime, guava, alfalfa, and Veracruz oranges. The ginger was to add some heat, and the lime to cut down on the sweetness of the oranges and guava. The alfalfa … let’s just say it was a random addition. And the results were excellent.

On the right, an plate of two tacos — chorizo verde, and chorizo with habanero — and guacamole at Ricos Tacos Toluca. And that guacamole was self-serve, so go crazy.

As for chorizo verde, it’s a specialty of Toluca, the capital of the state of Mexico, a neighbor of Mexico City. The verde (green) color stems from a mix of cilantro and tomatillos. It’s probably my favorite taco ingredient, although nearly everything else is in second place.

Japan

Japan, like Sakartvelo, is back for my top five eats of 2023.

I inhaled this fantastic tuna sashimi at the Shiogama Wholesale Market in Shiogama, northeast of the city of Sendai.

Tuna sashimi at Shiogama Wholesale Market, Japan

The fishmonger had a giant bluefin specimen de-chilling on the table. I couldn’t resist pescado that fresh.

The mouth feel — the Japanese word is shokkan (食感 /しょっかん) — was slowly melting butter.

Simple as.

China

Once China reopened to international tourism, I pounced on the opportunity.

It was also a good reason to revisit one of my former homes, Shenzhen.

After a ridiculous quest to cross the Hong Kong border, I finally made it to downtown Luo Hu, my old culinary stomping ground. There were plenty of late night options available, but I had only one regional cuisine in mind.

Hunan.

A random walk down a once familiar street had some potential. It was a Hunan specialist, but could they make 擂辣椒茄子 (léi làjiāo qiézi, or mashed eggplant with lots of chilies)? The dish is seldom on menus outside of Hunan province, so I decided to cut out the middleman, and go directly to the chef.

Coincidentally, the owner of the restaurant had heard my question, and told the chef to make it, along with a few other surprises.

On the left in the wooden bucket, perhaps the best version of 擂辣椒茄子 I’ve ever tried. The textures, the spice level, and the temperature were all on point. The lagniappes included crawfish, peanuts, and a Tsingtao beer.

Throughout my meal, both the owner, and another particularly drunk table invited me to eat with them.

The name of the restaurant — Hunan friend — rang true that night.

Qatar

Over at FindingFoodFluency, I wrote a review about Jiwan restaurant in Doha. Overall, the meal had its ups and downs, but two particular things stood out. One, the view from Jiwan, both of the National Museum of Qatar, and of the Doha skyline/harbor, were neat.

Two, the octopus:

Grilled octopus at Jiwan restaurant, Doha, Qatar

I can’t resist grilled octopus. But what really helped this dish excel was an off-menu ask of the Sri Lankan chefs to whip up a spicy condiment.

I don’t know what exactly was in the blue and white container, but it was hot, and meshed all too well with the charring of the cephalopod.

I could go on, but I won’t. We will simply have to wait until next January to see what food discoveries were made in 2024.

The First Food Tour of Mexico City

December 6, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

As winter slowly encroaches upon much of the U.S., let’s warm up a little by taking a Mexico City food tour.

We’ll start with two examples of comida callejera, or street food.

a table with food on it — Street Food Vendor Preparing Chorizo Verde on a Comal (Flat Griddle)

Green chorizo, what?! Nope, it’s not from using avocados.

Hailing from the city of Toluca in the state of Mexico (the latter of which surrounds Mexico City on three sides), chorizo verde consists of pork, and mix of herbs, spices, and chilies. Standard chorizo is the reddish one given a smokiness by the cayenne pepper (pimentón), so the green version is a nice change from the repetitive red chorizo flavor.

a plate of tacos with sauce and fries — Tacos de Chorizo Verde, Mexico City

However, chorizo verde is not one of the more common street food options. That’s why you might want to keep a look out for it if you want an herbal, slightly lighter take on its Iberian cousin.

Having consumed just two tacos for the day, I was still feeling peckish. Besides, I had to continue with my Mexico City food tour.

Enter, one of the best food stalls I’ve seen anywhere, in the Colonia Juárez district.

It’s easy to get distracted by the deliciousness surrounding you in a place like Mexico, yet even in that lofty position, there exist stand-outs:

a trays of food on a counter — An Array of Meat and Salsa (and Guacamole), Mexico City, Mexico

On the comal – a flat griddle (historically made of clay) used for centuries in Mexico -these three chefs had chorizo, campechano (a mix of beef and pork of various cuts), suadero (fried beef), carnitas (shredded pork shoulder braised in its own fat), something akin to a burger, papas (potatoes), and nopales, or cactus. What really sold me was the “fixins’ bar” of condiments– guajillo salsa, tomatillo salsa, beans, avocado tomatillo salsa, guacamole (!), pickled carrots, onions and cilantro, and a bevy of Veracruz limes. Wow.

What did I order?

Two chorizo tacos with melted queso para asar (grilling cheese), potatoes, and onions, and a plate of the fun stuff. Naturally, by the time I was finished chowing everything down, I had two more plates of salsa, and three more tacos.

n.b. that queso para asar is delicious stuff, but I wonder where to get halloumi for my next Mexico City food tour?

Alright, it’s time for a drink break.

Nami, or ola in Spanish, means wave. It’s also the name of the first brand of nihonshu (what we call sake) produced on Mexican soil, in the city of Culiacán, Sinaloa. Although the brewery, called Sakecul, produces three types of sake – junmai (純米 – pure rice without added alcohol/sugar), junmai ginjou (吟醸 – highly milled rice), and junmai daiginjou (大吟醸 – very highly milled rice, usually considered the top-tier of sake) – they also produce a beer called Haiku. Nami was founded in September 2016, and can be found throughout major Mexican cities.

I sample the junmai and the daiginjou at Hiyoko, a modern yakitori restaurant in what has become the capital’s de facto Japanese barrio (neighborhood).

To top off my first review of Mexico City eats, I bring you la Señora Torres (named after the restaurant owner):

a stack of food on a plate — La Señora Torres, Mi Compa Chava, Mexico City, Mexico

Basically, I was searching in Spanish for popular restaurants in Mexico City, and came across Mi Compa Chava (My Pal Chava), a popular spot in the foreigner-heavy Roma Norte section of town. (link in Spanish) It’s a seafood restaurant focusing on fresh catches from Sinaloa, the same state where the sake originated.

It’s also the home of that unbelievable tower (torre coincidentally means “tower” in Spanish) of seafood, as shown above and below…

The edible skyscraper had layers of octopus, raw shrimp, cooked shrimp, cucumber, yellow fin tuna, red onion, avocado, and callo de hacha (scallops). Upon serving the tower, the waiter poured a blend of lime juice, charred tomatoes, Morita chilies, and a house salsa over it, returning the seafood back “to the sea.” Actually, that’s just my take on things.

The dish was a delight to conquer, and showed how fresh each ingredient could taste, in spite of being a couple of hours flight time from the Sinaloa port of Los Mochis (Mexico City is, after all the home of the largest seafood market in the country, and the Central de Abasto, the largest wholesale food market in the world).

What’s that you say? You want to see more of Mexican gastronomy to plan your visit?

I think that can be arranged.

Mexicana 2: Electric Boogalu

August 11, 2023 by NoWorkAllTravel Leave a Comment

Speaking of phoenixes, it appears that Mexicana will be taking to the skies by Q4 of this year. Good thing I didn’t include them in this post.

But before we get into the latest news, I have fond memories of flying with Mexicana, which was one of the world’s oldest carriers before it went belly-up in 2010. They were my first few flights to (and within) Mexico, on a San Antonio SAT to Acapulco ACA (via Mexico City MEX) roundtrip in 1997. For whatever reason, I also vividly remember being served beef stir-fry and flan in business class. The cabins were clean, the flights on-time, and of all things, I most looked forward to eating at Planet Hollywood Acapulco.

Was I ever that young?

Back to the news reports, the Mexican government has purchased Mexicana de Aviación for about 816 million pesos, or roughly US$48 million as of 9 August. I mention 9 August because that’s the date the transfer of the airline’s brand and assets was finally completed, after months and months of negotiations between the two parties.

Included in those assets are 14 subsidiaries airline brands, two buildings, and a flight simulator. This also means progress has been made to recompense the more than 7,000 former airline employees who remain unpaid since the 2010 insolvency.

Mexicana Banner at Mexico City International Airport, August 2010

Sedena, or Mexico’s Secretariat of National Defense, expects flights to begin as soon as this December. The goal for the revived Mexicana is to connect Mexico City’s relatively new Felipe Ángeles International Airport — with destinations unserved by the competition. Moreover, the brand will be in the LCC (low-cost carrier) vein, to promote tourism and development throughout the country.

Why that airport and not the usual MEX? Ehh, let’s call it bureaucratic amistad (friendship). Then again, MEX is way too crowded, and Texcoco way too underdeveloped (/sarcasm), so it’s the only choice.

Airport Review: Felipe Ángeles International Airport, Mexico City

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The First Food Tour of Mexico City

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Mexicana 2: Electric Boogalu

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Mexico

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Food

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